Sparkling sake is the newest craze to hit American shores, a refreshing alternative to beer or wine. The bubbles are a natural product of alcoholic fermentation, but, until very recently, the carbonation was always allowed to escape. Sparkling Harushika Tokimeki is unfiltered, opalescent in the glass. Bright, fruity aromas of lemon curd and yogurt smoothies prepare the palate for lively summer flavors of cantaloupe, poached pears and creme fraiche. Its whisper of sweetness and understated effervescence are pleasing as either an aperitif or as a food partner.